Craftsmanship is Key at Ulla Johnson’s Latest Show

Backstage at Ulla Johnson’s Spring 2019 collection, stylists added finishing touches to the models who were prepped with dewy skin finishes, defined brows, and natural red hued lips. The New York native founded her eponymous line in 2000, but this is only Johnson’s seventh fashion week presentation. Her decision to host a runway show this season proved to be the right choice.

African music echoed through the large room, as models emerged, weaving between pillars on the sand-colored granite tile floor. Johnson is known for her bohemian and ethereal style, so watching as model after model emerged in distinctly African-inspired looks with a bohemian twist was a breath of fresh air. She stayed true to her rustic style, yet embraced new colors, textures, and techniques borrowed from the Herero of Namibia and Maasai tribe of Kenya. She also drew inspiration from Gee’s Bend, an African-American community based in Alabama, which is known for turning old scraps of fabric into intricate quilts. Craftsmanship was the theme of this show and Johnson did not disappoint.

Darker hues for Spring started off the show, with a combination of Johnson’s signature ditsy florals and intricately woven raffia. Her use of this material paid homage to the Herero tribe and demonstrated the way a material not typically used in fashion can be integrated into a cohesive collection. Paired with Victorian-inspired blouses with billowing sleeves, the juxtaposition of fabrics created a sense of strength that at times is hidden in Johnson’s soft image.

As the show continued, the looks became more elaborate and technical, validating Johnson’s extensive research on the Herero tribe. Beautifully knitted dresses with elaborate African-inspired patterns are woven in vibrant red and jet black against pure white backdrops. These patterned looks had three-dimensional details at the shoulder that were a more structured version of Johnson’s signature ruffles. The emboldened knits are paired back with delicate lacy Victorian tops, effortlessly weaving together the designer’s trademark styles and the vibrancy of pre-colonial African tribes.

Following the intricate knitwear, Johnson continued her exploration of varied techniques by incorporating batik-style patchwork into structured jackets and blouson tops. Inspired by the isolated African-American community, Gee’s Bend, which hails from Alabama, Johnson used an array of fabrics to patch together swaths of material. Quilting can at times appear campy, but Johnson elevates the technique with architectural shapes.

While modernity rang through each phase of the show, the final looks brought the inspiration of the 19th-century Herero tribe to the 21st century. Pops of bold blue, red, and yellow hues paired with metallic lame added a punch of color that isn’t normally see from Johnson, but she managed to combine the colors, textures, and patterns in a way that still resonated her name. A deep, ruffled v-neck gown was to be expected in her collection, but the powerful Turmeric hue and gold metallic overlay showed a depth to her artistry we have all been waiting for.

We all know Ulla Johnson for her whimsical designs, but this ingenious African-inspired collection has lifted her to a new level, proving the power of femininity.