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Known for her high luxury designs and craftsmanship, Uruguayan-born designer Gabriela Hearst presented a sleek, yet grounded collection during this Fall’s New York Fashion Week. Set against a bleak grey concrete runway, Hearst’s designs sprang to life.
Beginning the show, Hearst sent structured dresses down the runway with impeccably crafted pleated skirts and peplum details. In a market filled with floral, flowy silhouettes, Hearst stood out with her strong lines and minimal detailing. Trench coats in color-blocked metallic fabric and fully-fashioned knitwear demonstrated her ability to put a new spin on classic silhouettes.
Hearst is the go-to designer for perfectly-tailored suiting and her Spring 2019 collection did not disappoint. Sharp lapels on double-breasted blazers paired with beautifully draped wide-leg pants offered the perfect balance between structured and relaxed. Her use of unexpected colors like raspberry and blush was refreshing, yet the real show stopper was a midnight blue silk suit with a proportioned fitted jacket and slim trousers.
As seen throughout her collection, Hearst uses her craft of tailoring as the foundation and weaves it through each of her looks, whether it is a classic suit or a well-draped Chambray jumpsuit. Even her most relaxed silhouettes, like a pearl-encrusted cream slip dress that hits at the ankle or a striped oversized shirt dress worn over wide-leg trousers, emanate her restrained minimalism and penchant for precision, a skill that usually takes years to hone.
Although her line has only been around for 3 years, Hearst has quickly positioned herself as a New York staple. From an effortless off-the-shoulder white corset dress for date night to a stunning three-piece khaki set for the boardroom, one could find an outfit for every occasion.
Aside from her flawless tailoring, Hearst is also known for her leather work, which has resulted in a successful handbag line. On the runway, we saw an array of structured clutches in patent and suede, navy accordion topped handbags, and large totes to be worn under one’s arm. She seamlessly incorporated the accessories into the looks and each style felt complementary to the clothing. Her thoughtful styling added an additional layer of luxury to the collection. Hearst didn’t limit herself to using leather in just handbags, but also incorporated it into belts, necklaces, and a stunning navy leather dress that was sewn in strips with alternating sheer panels. With the sheer paneling, the leather dress felt light and airy, which is a very difficult result to achieve when working with a material best known for its weight. Hearst yet again proved that if something is worth doing, it is worth doing it right.
This cohesive collection is not only luxurious, but functional. Hearst has been nicknamed the “American Hermes” by Vogue’s Nicole Phelps, yet her collection proves to be both aspirational and attainable. Hearst defined her target customer and is giving her items that will compliment each other, yet can be worn separate. With a growing fan base, Hearst continues to expand her collections, which will include jewelry in her soon-to-open Madison Avenue flagship store. We can only expect to see more innovation and precision with each coming season. Hearst has all of us on the edge of our seats, waiting to see what else she has up her perfectly-tailored sleeve.
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